[ Dr Anupam Mishra ]
India’s textile heritage is not just an industry; it is an art form, a tradition, and an integral part of the nation’s identity. For centuries, the handloom sector has thrived by utilising natural fibres such as cotton, silk, jute, banana, pineapple, arecanut, flax, hemp, and ramie, which form the cornerstone of sustainable textile production. These fibres are eco-friendly and intricately woven into the cultural, economic, and spiritual fabric of Indian society. Indian textiles are celebrated for their rich variety in texture, colour, pattern, and embellishment. Throughout history, textile weaving has played a pivotal role in the social and economic life of Indian communities, carrying cultural knowledge and reflecting the social, economic, and political structures of those communities.
Cultural significance of textiles in NE
The Northeast region of India, consisting of eight states -Assam, Manipur, Nagaland, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Tripura, Arunachal Pradesh, and Sikkim – boasts a rich textile tradition. Each tribe and community in the region has its own unique motifs and designs, which are deeply rooted in their culture and traditions. The region’s tribal handicrafts and textiles are not just products; they are expressions of identity, heritage, and community values. These textiles significantly contribute to the socioeconomic life of the region, while also serving as symbols of cultural continuity.
Growing global market for natural fibres
The global market for natural fibres has witnessed remarkable growth, valued at $4.9 billion in 2022 and expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 7.3% from 2023 to 2032. This surge is driven by the increasing demand for eco-friendly, biodegradable, and sustainable alternatives to synthetic textiles. Natural fibres, including both animal-based fibres (silk, wool, cashmere, mohair, alpaca) and plant-based fibres (cotton, linen, hemp, flax, ramie, sisal, banana), hold vast potential across various industries such as textiles, agriculture, and handicrafts.
Northeast India is particularly well-positioned to promote sustainable natural fibres, including cotton, bamboo, banana, pineapple, ramie, Comilla cotton, jute, and other allied fibres. The economic and environmental advantages of these fibres can drive sustainable development in the region. For example, the region produces over 1.2 million metric tonnes of pineapple annually, offering an abundant source of leaves for fibre extraction. Similarly, arecanut cultivation yields approximately 600,000 tonnes annually, providing a sustainable fibre resource from husks. Additionally, ramie, primarily cultivated in Assam and Meghalaya, and Comilla cotton are valuable natural fibres with broad applications. Leveraging these fibres can not only preserve the region’s textile heritage but also position Northeast India as a leader in sustainable textile production, contributing to both economic growth and environmental sustainability.
NE’s role in India’s natural fibre economy
As India aims for its ambitious $5 trillion economy, natural fibres, heritage textiles, and indigenous crafts have a critical role to play in this vision. Northeast India, especially Meghalaya, Assam, and Tripura, is rich in fibres such as banana pseudostem, pineapple leaf (PALF), ramie, bamboo, and silk (eri, muga, and mulberry). These fibres hold enormous potential for sustainable economic growth, rural employment, and global exports.
The global demand for natural fibres continues to rise, and the market for sustainable materials is projected to grow at a CAGR of 5.5%, reaching $15 billion by 2030. This growth offers a unique opportunity for Northeast India to emerge as a leading supplier of natural fibers. The region’s pineapple industry alone has an export potential of $50 million annually. Ramie, in particular, stands out as a sustainable alternative to synthetic fibres, with applications in textiles, industrial uses like ropes and geotextiles, and even biodegradable packaging.
Banana pseudostem fibre, also known as banana silk, is an eco-friendly and versatile natural fibre gaining popularity as a sustainable alternative to synthetic materials. With Northeast India producing around 30 million tonnes of bananas annually, banana fibres are in abundant supply. This renewable material is used in textiles, eco-friendly packaging, industrial products, non-woven goods, and even compostable tea bags. It offers several benefits, such as strength, durability, water resistance, and UV protection. The versatility of banana fibre in applications from clothing to automotive components presents significant economic opportunities. By scaling production and exports, Northeast India could generate over $1 billion in annual revenue, creating employment and enhancing the profitability of banana farming.
Northeast India also holds great potential to capitalise on pineapple leaf fibre (PALF) as a zero-waste textile resource. States like Assam, Meghalaya, Manipur, and Tripura lead the nation in pineapple cultivation, yet the economic potential of the leaves – usually discarded as agricultural waste – remains largely untapped. PALF is in high demand in eco-fashion, blended fabrics, technical textiles, composite materials, and paper production due to its tensile strength, biodegradability, and versatility. Expanding fibre extraction could contribute $500 million annually to the region’s economy, creating thousands of jobs and reducing agricultural waste.
Ramie, a fibre known for its exceptional strength, natural lustre, biodegradability, and resistance to microbes, is another key resource for Northeast India. Its cultivation, especially in Assam and Meghalaya, is supported by favourable agroclimatic conditions. Ramie has numerous applications in textiles, furnishings, and industrial uses. By enhancing ramie production and infrastructure, India could boost its natural fibre exports by $300-400 million annually. This would reduce dependence on synthetic materials while creating new economic opportunities in the region.
Overcoming challenges
Despite the promising potential, several challenges hinder the growth of the natural fibre industry in Northeast India. These include labour-intensive cultivation and processing methods, inadequate processing facilities, and limited market access. To overcome these barriers, a strategic approach is needed, focusing on capacity building, infrastructure development, and policy support. Government subsidies, incentives, and decentralised processing units can act as catalysts for growth. Collaboration between farmers, artisans, research institutions, and private enterprises will be essential to create an integrated value chain for natural fibre products.
Investment in research and development to enhance fibre extraction and processing techniques can drive innovation and competitiveness in the global market. Promoting sustainable practices and developing high-value products will significantly enhance the market potential of natural fibres. Through concerted efforts, Northeast India can unlock the full potential of its natural fibres, achieving economic empowerment, environmental conservation, and cultural preservation.
Sustainable textile development at CAU
The growing global demand for eco-friendly, biodegradable fibres presents significant export and branding opportunities for India. By leveraging the Northeast’s rich biodiversity and traditional knowledge, India can position itself as a leader in sustainable fibre production while generating economic growth.
The spinning and weaving unit of the department of textiles and apparel designing at the College of Community Science, Central Agricultural University (Imphal), Tura, Meghalaya, plays a pivotal role in promoting sustainable textile development. Through the extraction and processing of natural fibres like banana, ramie, pineapple, jute, and arecanut, the unit utilizes mechanical decorticators and extractors to process fibres without chemicals. The unit focuses on creating diverse handloom products such as woven textiles, mats, ropes, and other handicrafts, integrating traditional techniques with modern design innovations.
In addition to product development, the department fosters community empowerment through training programmes for farmers, rural youths, and farmwomen. These programmes focus on fibre extraction, spinning, weaving, and product development, thereby fostering entrepreneurship and additional income generation. Collaborations with research institutes like ICAR-NINFET (National Institute of Natural Fibre Engineering and Technology) and local centres like DCIC (District Industries & Commerce Centre) further support skill development and quality standards, contributing to sustainable economic growth in the region.
By combining traditional knowledge with modern advancements, Northeast India can become a global leader in sustainable textiles, paving the way for a greener and more prosperous future. (Dr Anupam Mishra is Vice Chancellor, Central Agricultural University, Imphal, Manipur.)
