Forgotten pilgrimage: The sacred journey of the Dakpa Tsari circumambulation

[ Tase Mra ]

The Dakpa Tsari pilgrimage (also referred to as the Tsari pilgrimage), which once held immense spiritual significance for Buddhists in Tibet and the tribes of Arunachal Pradesh, is a journey that has faded into obscurity due to political and border tensions. This ancient pilgrimage centres around Takpa Siri or the ‘Crystal Mountain’, a revered peak located along the disputed India-China border, near Upper Subansiri district. Its sacred nature attracted pilgrims every 12years, who believed that circumambulating the mountain would purify their sins and bring spiritual merit.

Historical significance

The Dakpa Tsari pilgrimage has been deeply entwined with Tibetan Buddhism and local tribal cultures. The mountain itself is considered sacred due to its association with the Buddhist goddess Dolma (Tara), who is said to have grazed her yaks there. The pilgrimage path, which covered the Tsari Chu valley, extended into both Tibet and the Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh, following a sacred circuit known as Ringkor, a three-month journey passing through monasteries and natural landmarks like rivers and caves considered holy. Historically, Monpas, Tagins, and Tibetans undertook this arduous journey, which involved prayers, meditative practices, and rituals aimed at purifying sins.

Route and path

The pilgrimage’s route began from Chosam in Tibet, following the Tsari Chu river towards the Subansiri river in Arunachal. Pilgrims travelled through the Tsari Chu valley to Taksing in India, and the pilgrimage traditionally ended at Yume Gompa, a monastery in Tibet. The circuit, known as Rongkor, was physically challenging, as it passed through deep valleys, high-altitude passes, and sacred lakes. Tsukangs, or resting camps, were set up at intervals along the way to shelter pilgrims.

The Mra and Nah clans of the Tagin tribe played a vital role in the success of the Dakpa Tsari pilgrimage, acting as guides, protectors, and hosts as the pilgrimage route passed through their territories. These clans ensured the safe passage of Tibetan pilgrims through the rugged and often dangerous landscapes of the Tagin tribal regions, providing shelter, provisions, and protection from natural hazards. They also maintained peaceful relations between the pilgrims and local tribal groups, acting as intermediaries and safeguarding the sanctity of sacred sites along the route.

In recognition of their essential role, the Tibetan government historically paid regular tributes to the Mra and Nah clans, offering material goods such as cloth, tea, and grain, which were scarce in the remote tribal areas. These tributes were part of a broader diplomatic relationship, ensuring the cooperation of the clans and the peaceful passage of pilgrims. The system of tributes not only strengthened the ties between the Tibetan authorities and the Tagin clans but also helped maintain the spiritual and political significance of the pilgrimage.

Discontinuation and last pilgrimage

The last known full pilgrimage occurred in 1956, just before tensions between India and China escalated into open conflict, leading to the border being effectively sealed. The McMahon Line and the creation of the Line of Actual Control (LAC) disrupted the continuity of this spiritual journey. With the closing of the borders after the Sino-Indian War of 1962, access to the sacred mountain from India was cut off, and the pilgrimage was effectively discontinued.

Consequences of the pilgrimage’s end

The cessation of the Dakpa Tsari pilgrimage has had significant socio-cultural consequences. The tribes in Arunachal who were historically part of this tradition lost an integral spiritual and cultural event that helped maintain their unique identity. The region’s connectivity to Tibet was severed, affecting trade, cross-cultural exchanges, and social ties that had flourished through the pilgrimage. The spiritual heritage tied to Takpa Siri has gradually faded, and the younger generations are unfamiliar with the pilgrimage’s rich traditions.

Reviving the pilgrimage

Reviving the pilgrimage could bring substantial economic benefits to Arunachal. The region is remote and economically underdeveloped, but with the resumption of this sacred journey, there would be potential for growth in religious tourism, providing income to local communities through hospitality and guiding services, and cultural events. The reopening of the route could also bolster Arunachal’s position as a cultural and spiritual hub, drawing pilgrims from all over the Tibetan Buddhist world.

Political challenges

The primary challenge to reviving the pilgrimage is the ongoing border dispute between India and China. The mountain lies in a politically sensitive region, and any effort to restore the pilgrimage would require diplomatic negotiations between the two nations.

However, reopening this sacred route could also serve as a diplomatic tool for fostering peace and understanding between India and China. Both governments could leverage the pilgrimage as a means of promoting cultural diplomacy, potentially easing tensions in the long term.

Positive impacts of resumption

Beyond economic benefits, the revival of the DakpaTsari pilgrimage would have profound cultural and spiritual impacts. It would restore historical ties between the people of Arunachal and Tibet, promote intercultural dialogue, and enhance regional cooperation. Additionally, such a move could increase the global visibility of Arunachal as a spiritual destination, creating opportunities for sustainable development in the region.

In conclusion, while current geopolitical circumstances make the resumption of the DakpaTsari pilgrimage seem improbable, the potential benefits – ranging from economic growth to cultural preservation and diplomatic goodwill – make it an issue worth pursuing by both India and China. The reestablishment of this pilgrimage could become a symbol of peace and cooperation in a historically contested region. (The contributor is an APCS aspirant and a resident of Model Village, Naharlagun.)